When you're trying to get to a business meeting out in the remote Western suburbs, and it's a hot day, and the bus route that was recommended to you appears not to exist, and you're starting to be in danger of running late... trying to hail a cab could well bring on a massive anxiety attack.
But, occasionally, you get lucky. Occasionally, just occasionally, you get a driver who...
... is cheerful and serene, rather than a xenophobic grump or a road-raging psychopath.
... knows how to drive, and doesn't crunch his gears painfully, or wear out his clutch, or hop madly from accelerator to brake and back again in a series of kangaroo lurches down the road.
... chooses to drive safely, indicating his lane changes, and not carving other drivers up at every opportunity.
.... doesn't quite know the way, but is honest about that, and doesn't panic about it.
... takes your mobile phone from you to get directions from your host, and then just takes the directions briskly and simply, without getting into a long argument about it (or a general conversation about the weather or the government, or whatever it is that most cabbies talk about when given the chance to converse with a stranger on somebody else's phone).
... does his best to take you right to the door, stopping frequently to ask directions from the numerous 'security guards' loafing around this huge and labyrinthine villa development out on the 5th Ringroad.
... cheerfully lets you off the 2-kuai surcharge when he sees you don't have any small change (this has only ever happened to me a handful of times before, most notably with this guy - my previous coolest cabbie).
... stops and calls back to you in friendly fashion when he finally spots the address you're looking for as he's driving away.
It was more than just a pleasant surprise or a welcome relief from stress; it was a joyous, life-enhancing experience. We don't get nearly enough of them in Beijing, but we do get some.
Not surprisingly, this chap was a 20-plus-year veteran: registration number 0039**.
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